Peel Back the Indigo: Citrus Kasuri Selvedge

Mar 6, 2026

By Geneviève Boucher

Some textile techniques exist primarily as methods of creating pattern before weaving begins. Kasuri is one of them. The Citrus Kasuri Selvedge is a 14oz Japanese selvedge denim that applies this resist-dye technique to the weft yarns before the fabric is woven. Indigo rope-dyed warp yarns form the exterior surface of the denim, while the interior contains Kasuri-dyed weft yarns with alternating yellow and green segments. This process produces a vibrant citrus-toned interior that remains hidden beneath the indigo surface until wear begins to reveal it. . After a long winter, those citrus tones beneath the indigo hints that spring is on the way.

Kasuri Dyeing

Kasuri (絣) refers to textiles woven using yarns that are resist-dyed before weaving in order to create patterns within the cloth. It belongs to the broader family of ikat dyeing techniques practiced in different parts of the world.

Ikat-style resist dyeing was practiced in the Ryukyu Kingdom (present-day Okinawa) as early as the 12th or 13th century. By the 14th century, Kasuri textiles were already being exported from the region.

To produce Kasuri yarn, sections of the yarn are tightly wrapped with thread to prevent dye from reaching those areas. The exposed portions absorb dye while the wrapped sections remain undyed. After dyeing, the bindings are removed and different sections of the yarn may be wrapped again before repeating the process. Through multiple dye stages, the yarn develops alternating colored segments along its length.

When these yarns are woven, the dyed sections rarely align perfectly, creating the slightly blurred patterns characteristic of Kasuri textiles. Patterning may be applied to the warp, the weft, or both. For the Citrus Kasuri Selvedge, the Kasuri dyeing is applied to the weft yarn alternating yellow and green segments created through this resist-dye process.

As the denim wears, the indigo warp gradually fades toward white. In areas of heavier abrasion, where the warp yarns break or wear through, the citrus-colored Kasuri weft becomes visible beneath the surface of the fabric.

Details and Finishing

The denim is woven on shuttle looms in Japan, with a white with green and yellow speckles / red / white selvedge edge. Each pair features a natural vegetable-tanned leather patch that darkens through exposure and wear. All garments are cut and sewn in Canada.